On Morocco’s Atlantic coast, a little under three hours due west of Marrakesh, Essaouira is a laid-back port town cooled by the vents alizés trade winds gently blowing in from the ocean.

Once known as Mogador, the town took its current name from the 18th century medina – ‘souira’ meaning small fortress – with crenelated walls enclosing a handful of palmed-lined avenues and connecting atmospheric alleys.